Bonding & Behaviour
Normal behaviour.
Unfortunately when it comes to our boars in particular, we struggle to re-home due the seemingly bad reputation they have. So we are going to explain behaviours and when to be concerned and try to give you all the information you.
This part is about behaviours AFTER bonding, and the next part is all about bonding and the behaviours along side it.
1. Rumble strutting (shaking their bum) is normal. It may look harsh to humans but its just like humans squaring up and airing a side of their story. They are trying to be stern and get on top of the hierarchy or maintain it.
2. Grumbling/Squeeking is also a completely normal behaviour and is their way of expressing a clash or negative feeling. Most guinea pigs will grumble at each other often, it's like when us as humans moan at each other.
3. Teeth chattering is a lot more common in boars than sows, although sows will also do this time to time, and it means no harm. It feels aggressive to us, and we may fret that something is going wrong even when it isn't, but it is just the guinea pigs way of sorting an argument out or gaining top dog position. Even when they seem to do it all the time, there is no need to worry, unless one is looking more depressed. The majority of boars in particularly will do this regularly from puberty onwards.
4. Chasing each other is purely dominating behaviour. Sometimes it may lead to a fight but if they are just chasing each other off, this is nothing to worry about, and is simply another way of saying I'm the boss.
5. Both boars and more surprisingly sows, will hump as a way to create hierarchy and show their dominance. This happens more so in introductions and less in time, but will constantly be a behaviour where any heirachy changes are made.
6. Lifting noses to see who can get higher is a very common behaviour, which is completely normal and usually an ongoing behaviour. It's one of the less alarming behaviours to us as humans but its just as innocent and important as all the others for the guinea pigs.
7. Fighting can look terrifying to us, however it can happen with guinea pigs and is normal within reason. A short fight, with no fur pulled out or blood, is completely fine and typical occasionally with males. However if injury is caused, the fight is pro-longed, or fur is been ripped out, then separation needs to be considered.
8. Sitting on each other is also a normal behaviour that in particalr sows will do, this is part of their dynamics and how they behave together.
9. Nipping is a behaviour more commonly seen in females. Again this is completely normal and while it may seem harsh to us, its normal and nothing other than keeping another guinea pig in line. Its much more common in herds where more control needs asserting to keep others in good behaviour. But will be seen in any group of two or more.
10. lunging Is usually a precursor to a fight, and we normally advise separation to prevent injury from fighting if lunging occurs. This is a behaviour seen early on in a bond that does not work, so is not usually seen in an established bond.
11. Barbering, when they chew their own fur or anothers fur and essentially give them a hair cut is a stress behaviour.
1. Quarantine for 2 weeks - this is important incase newbie is carrying an invisible illness.
2. Bond in neutral territory with a big pile of hay and only hides with more than one exit.
3. Expect dominance behaviour. As long as they aren't biting/lunging then do not separate. Normal dominance behaviour includes chasing, teeth chattering, rumbling, humping, etc.
This can look scary to us, but it's how they sort out who is boss.
4. Leave together for several hours, until they've all had a snooze.
5. Place in their freshly cleaned 100% scent free cage to live together.
Bonding must be done all in one day, not tried again over several days.
Minimum space is essential to make sure bonding is successful.
2 of everything and plenty of space.
open ended hides so no one can get cornered.
Some boars get upset by cage cleaning, their smells have gone and changing from a run back to the cage can cause squabbles too as they decide who's dominant again.
Re- bonding is possible after 2 weeks separation, and following bonding rules. However it isn't always successful.
If fighting has occurred more space for a few hours can help.
It may take a few days with a lot of space to help with the bonding process and before the 'top dog' is decided.
(Credit: Thank you to Guinea Pigs UK for letting us use their kind words)
ADMIN POST: Bonding guinea pigs!
The first thing you'll want to remember is that new pigs should always be quarantined for at least two weeks in a room away from your resident animals. This is to prevent the spread of communicable diseases and parasites. Keep an eye on the new pig during quarantine, and be sure to see a vet if you notice anything "off" about them. Quarantining also gives the new pig an opportunity to relax and assimilate to their new environment a bit. The only exception to quarantining would be if you got a pig from a TRUSTED source: like from a reputable rescue or breeder.
This two week period will give you a chance to gather all the extra supplies you'll need too. You'll want to totally rearrange your pigs' cage, unless you're upgrading them to a new enclosure completely. This means you'll want to buy some new accessories and bedding. When shopping, keep in mind that hides with two exits / entrances will help reduce bullying and tensions. A submissive pig needs to be able to run away when they feel threatened; if they're cornered, a fight could erupt. On that note too, be sure the new pig also has their own set of everything - their own hide, their own food bowl, their own water bottle. Don't force them to share, boys are notorious for not wanting to even when they're bonded.
Once you're ready to go, find a large neutral area to do introductions. This could be a spare bedroom, the bathroom, or the kitchen. The key is to find an area your resident pig hasn't really explored or claimed yet. Pen the area, add several LARGE piles of hay, and some fresh vegetables scattered about. Again, you don't want them fighting over small amounts of hay - if there are other piles, a submissive pig will usually back off and go eat somewhere else. Once it's all set up: add the pigs. Place each pig on opposite ends of the pen, so they can approach each other at their own pace. Don't force them to interact, and don't rush them. Allow them a few hours to work out their differences and establish no humping, teeth chattering, stomping, yawning, nosing off, rumble strutting, snorting. Don't worry unless you start to see MULTIPLE signs of aggression. I.e., a rumble strutting pig who yawns and stomps his feet might be preparing for an attack. If they do fight, just remain calm. Sometimes scuffles can seem extreme to us, when they're in a ball of fur, but it might not be as bad as you think it is. Only separate them if blood is drawn! And if you do need to separate them, use oven mitts. If you put your hands between two clashing guinea pigs, you will get bit.
Once you're confident that they're settled down, start cleaning the cage they'll go into together. Wipe it down with white vinegar to thoroughly remove all the scents. Add new bedding, tons of hay, rearrange the cage, and then add both pigs. Observe them again for some time to ensure no fights break out in the cage.
Avoid multiple introductions as much as possible. That can actually make tensions between the guinea pigs worse over time. It's much easier on you and them to just devote a day to bonding and get it over with.
(Written by Cat Daniele)
ADMIN